ATHENS…Ancient & Modern

 

 THE ACROPOLIS

The crowning glory of the Greek capital is without a doubt the Parthenon on the Acropolis.  Since the age of Pericles, this imposing natural fortress dominates the scene from whichever angle you view it.  From central Athens, the walls of the Acropolis peek through downtown buildings suddenly and surprisingly, offering an ancient backdrop to a modern Metropolis.

Miraculously, after 2,500 years, the Periclean Acropolis is still standing despite the ravages of modern pollution, which have sent the remaining statues and frescoes inside the Acropolis Museum.  Nonetheless, there is still a feeling of wonderment when one views the once pagan site and the view from up there is a panoramic one.

 

HISTORY OF THE ACROPOLIS

The rock of the Acropolis with its natural spring, the “klepsydra” and its caves (mostly on its northern side) has been inhabited since the Neolithic times.  During the Mycenaean Age, it was fortified with Cyclopean walls, which protected the King’s palace and the residences of the senior officials on the summit.

In early historical times, the palace was super ceded by a temple dedicated to Poseidon, god of the spring and to Athena, goddess of the olive tree.  In archaic Times, the temple was twice destroyed and rebuilt.  On the second occasion (in the years of the Pesistratids towards the close of the 6th century B.C.), it was adorned with excellent carved gables while a second temple, dedicated to Athena, began to be built further south of the rock.

In the meantime, after the Panathenaean festivals were established (in 566 B.C.), the first monumental Propylaea were built on the western approaches to the rock, together with an altar dedicated to Athena Niki.  Apart from these, various other temples and shrines stood on the rock, dedicated to various gods and demi-gods, heroes and demons and there were also some open-air-altars.  In 480 B.C., all temples on the Acropolis and the entire city of Athens were sacked by the Persians and burnt.  Today’s layout of the fortified citadel is the work of Pericles who, aided by his principal collaborator Pheidias, had the temples on the Acropolis rebuilt, after first having completed defensive walls begun by Kimon.

The Parthenon was the first temple to be built.  It was dedicated t the Virgin goddess Athena.  Iktinos was its architect while Pheidias and his pupils had charge of the general constructional supervision and the decorative carvings.  It was the first time that a temple in the Doric style was decorated all round with a sculptured frieze (160 meters long) illustrating the Panathenaean Procession.  The 92 me topes were also sculptured with relief’s representing a battle with giants, a battle with Amazons, battles with centaurs and scenes from the Trojan War.  The gold and ivory Statue of the goddess Athena, the work of Pheidias, was erected in the interior.

When construction of the temple had been completed, the pedimental sculptures were added.

The birth of Athena, from the head of Zeus, was depicted on the eastern Pediment, the dispute

between Poseidon and Athens for the possession of Attica was shown on the western pediment.  Then followed construction of the impressive Propylaea by the architect Minisicles.

A little later, a third architect, Kallikrates, built the elegant Temple of the Wingless Victory (on the tower which had been formed to the south  of the Propylaea).  Its frieze was decorated with the scenes from the historic battle of the Plataeai while its marble balustrade showed Athena Niki and other Niki figures.

Last to be built, in the Ionic style, was the Erechtheion temple which occupied the site of the former  temple of Athena and Poseidon and was dedicated to the  two deities. However, it also became the resting place for the tombs of the creators of Athens, Erechtheus and Kekrops.  The elegant porch of the Karyatids gives only a faint notion of the luxurious construction of this temple.  Of all other buildings and votive offerings, which decorated the rock in classical times, traces only are left (e.g. the sanctuary of Vranvronia Artemis, the Halkothiki, etc.)  In Roman times, a small circular temple of Augustus and Rome was added but did not survive. 

  

BEYOND THE ACROPOLIS

Two open-air theaters flank the Acropolis: the Herode Atticus Odeon (circa A.D. 200) and the more ancient Theater of Dionysus (circa 400 B.C.).  The Dionysus theatre is the actual site where plays first evolved out of the orgiastic rituals of Dionysus.  The Herode Atticus is the home of the Athens Festival in the summer.

After exploring the Acropolis, it is a must to walk down the northwest side of the hill in order to wander through the site of the ancient Agora, where so many scenes of Plato’s Republic occurred.

The Plaka, the oldest living neighborhood in Europe, is nearby, offering a great place to eat lunch or shop before heading back to the hotel.  Plaka’s winding narrow streets, some only fit for one person at a time to get through Plaka has been restored to its former glory; the charm of its pastel colored walls and wrought iron balconies, geraniums spilling onto stone steps, small churches everywhere, each with their own congregation, and tavernas and souvenir shops vying for visitors attention.  Plaka after hours is also something to experience, offering a rich taste of Greek culture.

A further attraction in this sprawling capital is the tiny Chapel of St. George atop of Mount Lycabettus sitting right in the center of the city.  This quite high mount (909’) looks like a fairly land at night and walking up there can be quite a strenuous exercise.  Steps leading from Xenocratous Street and Ploutarchou lead up to the funicular railway, which takes visitors to the top for a fee.  Once up there, one can admire the slightly fuzzy view over the city, or on a windy day glory in the panorama right across the city to the nearest islands.

Leading down from Mount Lycabettus, at the base is one of the smallest districts in Athens, Kolonaki or Little column, a name derived from a small ancient column in its main square.  Kolonaki square is great for people watching, an art form in Greece.  Coffee shops line two sides of the square and some great restaurants dot the area.   Also to be found there are the most fashionable boutiques of Athens.

Near Athens, there is plenty to do for the typical sun and fun vacationer.  Beaches line the Athens coast, some as near as half an hours drive from the city center.  One may water ski, play tennis, play golf, sail, visit three islands on a unique one day cruise, spend a day in Delphi, an afternoon at the ancient temple on Cape Sounion, take a flying dolphin to the nearer islands, or just simply vegetate on a beach. 

The summer nightlife scene is explosive in the affluent suburb of Glyfada, only a short drive from the center of Athens.  Nightclubs line the coastline to satisfy the appetite of any jet setter way into the early morning hours; and please feel free to dance on the tables!  By day Glyfada offers a more lounge like environment for coffee and people watching.  Don’t forget to bring your credit cards, because Glyfada offers an array of boutique style shopping, from Gucci to Hugo Boss.

Athens is a city offering variety, ancient or modern.  It’s all here, in some cases for thousands of  years, and in others for merely a month.  In any event you will not be disappointed.

 

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES & MUSEUMS

There are archaeological sites all over Greece.   The ancient stones rise amid meadows of wild flowers; they crown rocky hills.  Museums are usually built within the site to shelter finds from the excavations, finds which can be marvels of art, or simply items used in everyday life by the people of antiquity.

Touring Greece, the sophisticated traveler who has already admired Classical Greek art in all the museums of the world would be able to see it and appreciate it more under the light of the world, which gave birth to it.

The following are some of the most important archaeological sites and museums to visit, listed by art periods:

MINOAN CIVILIZATION

Knossos, Festos, the Heraklion Archaeological Museum in Crete; Akrotiri in Santorini and Thera collection in the Archaeological Museum in Athens.

MYCENEAN CIVILIZATION

Mycenae; Tiryns; Athens Archaeological Museum; Thebes Museum; Palace of Nestor in Hora Peloponnese. 

GREEK ART OF 6TH, 5TH and 4TH CENTURIES B.C.

Athens Acropolis; Corinth; Olympia; Delphi; Epidaurus; Delos; Vergina; Pella; Thessaloniki-their respective museums and the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.

BYZANTINE ART

Dafni Monastery; Ossios Loucas Monastery; Meteora; Mystras; Mount Athos; Byzantine churches in Athens; Thessaloniki; Kastoria; Benaki Museum in Athens.

GREEK POPULAR ART

Benaki Museum in Athens; Greek Popular Art Museums in Athens, Rhodes and Heraklion in Crete.

Museum is a Greek word, and the first center of intellectual activity know to us by that name was the Museum connected to the famous library in the Palace of the Ptolemies, in the great

Hellenistic city of Alexandria, founded by Alexander the Great in 332 B.C. But already a century earlier, in the Athens of Pericles, the instinct to preserve works of art was evident in a collection of paintings which had been gathered together on the north side of the Propyleum of the Acropolis, in a large hall called the Pinakothiki (picture gallery).

Although the Greeks lived for centuries under foreign rule, the memory of their glorious past never left them, and they retained a reverence for the splendid monuments of their ancestral inheritance.  But this was not enough to prevent the ravages of time and human ignorance.

NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

The Museum displays from all parts of the ancient Greek world, which date from Neolithic times to the last years of the Roman Empire.

·                     Art of the Pre-Historic Period Up to1100 B.C.

This includes four pre-historic collections from Thessaly (mainly ceramics and clay figurines), the Cyclades Islands (mainly marble figurines and vases),  Thera or Santorini (mainly frescoes), and Mycenaean period (treasures from royal tombs, cups from the Vafio beehive tomb, frescoes, arms, miniatures, etc).

 ·                     Art from the Historic Period

Sculpture and ceramics make up the main branch of the art of this period but there is also a variety of miniature arts, coins and goldsmith work.  Next  to the originals of works, mainly of the classical period, are copies from the Hellenistic and Roman times.

   

The National Museum also houses:  

* The Epigraphic Collection

* The Numismatic Collection

* The Thera Collection       

 

In the Museum Store, copies and castings of the exhibited objects are on sale.

 

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